Choosing the right paint for interiors
Paint is not decoration applied at the end. It is a protective film that happens to be what you see, and the difference between a wall that still looks right in five years and one that does not is mostly decided by what went on underneath it.
Paint is not decoration applied at the end. It is a protective film that happens to be the visible surface, and the difference between a wall that still looks right in five years and one that does not is decided mostly by what went on underneath.
What paint is doing
Applied wet, it sticks and hardens into a continuous solid film with two jobs:
- Protecting the surface from rusting, deterioration and decay
- Beautifying the surface
That film is what stands between the substrate and UV, moisture, chemicals, corrosion, algae and abrasion. A full paint system is a sealer and primer, an undercoat and a top coat, with texture coating added where the design calls for it.
The primer matters more than the top coat
Primer is a sticky, flat paint whose entire purpose is to adhere well and give the top coats a reliable base. Skip it and you need more coats for the same coverage, and the paint may still not bond properly.
On a new surface it seals the material so the paint does not soak in. It hides joints and seams in new drywall. It stops bleed-through from knots and natural colouring in bare timber. Stain-blocking primers cover mould marks and discolouration so they do not migrate into the finish coat. On masonry, metal and many timbers, primer is what makes adequate bonding possible at all.
It is normally white or another neutral, so colours read true. You can have it tinted towards the final colour, which is worth doing when the new colour is much lighter than what is underneath.
New drywall, aged wood, bare metal, previously painted brick — all of it wants primer.
The three interior paints
1. Distemper
The traditional whitewash: lime, chalk, water and pigment. Cheap, easy, safe, and it goes straight onto the wall with no primer. It also marks and discolours easily, fades in sunlight, and comes off with sustained water contact. Durability is its weak point.
2. Emulsion
The default for interiors, and the right answer in most homes. Durable, rich-looking, and stains wipe off with a cloth and mild detergent — which is the whole argument if you have children or pets. Available in any colour, mixable, unaffected by sunlight, and elastic enough to resist cracking.
3. Enamel
Very durable, properly glossy, and not cheap. Water and stain resistant, and it works on metal and timber alike. It has no elasticity, so it can crack over time, and the smell during application bothers some people.
Finishes, and what each one hides
- Matte / flat — non-reflective, so the wall shows no imperfections. Ideal on ceilings. Picks up dirt and needs retouching.
- Satin (eggshell) — soft sheen, harder to apply well, and it will not hide a bad wall. Needs a properly smooth POP-punned surface underneath.
- Semi-gloss — more sheen than satin without full reflection. Good moisture resistance, which is why it belongs in kitchens and bathrooms.
- Gloss — maximum reflection, shows almost no surface flaws, cleans easily and lasts well.
- Textured — for a single accent wall. Stippling, combing, sponging or ragging; can imitate stucco, marble or stone, and combines with metallic paint for stronger effects. Expensive, and its thickness hides an imperfect surface.
Choosing the colour
Get it right and colour creates flow, letting one room hand over to the next without a jolt. A home short on colour, pattern and texture feels lifeless no matter how well built it is.
Test before you commit. Put small samples on the actual wall and look at them at different times of day. It is the cheapest decision-making tool available, and it routinely changes the answer.